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The
goal of this PDI narrative is to give the new trailer owner “food
for thought” for when they take delivery of their new RV. Many
people don’t think about these things in detail until months later,
when a problem arises during their first camping trip and spoils the
outing for everyone. By then, the dealer’s service center is booked
for the season and the owner has little or no alternative than to
schedule a repair and wait.
I
advocate a full “New Owner PDI” while the trailer is still on the
dealer’s lot and still belongs to the dealer. Only when
everything in the trailer is cosmetically and functionally correct
should the new owner sign the paperwork and take delivery. Don’t
allow yourself to be pressured into accepting the trailer before you
are satisfied! This way, new trailer problems can be quickly and
easily corrected and the parties involved can do so on a clear
commercial basis.
This
list is a compilation of several available on the net along with
ideas and suggestions from my own experience, thinking &
reading. No guarantees are made on the efficiency or correctness of
these procedures or that your dealer will agree to any or all of
them (although he should!)-Your mileage may vary.
If you
don’t understand some of the procedures, bring a knowledgeable
friend or have the dealer PDI person demonstrate & explain in
detail to help your understanding. A still camera or video camera is
useful to have during the PDI for your furture reference.
Please
email me with comments or suggestions.
Tom
Boles SF Bay
Tom_boles@yahoo.com
STARTING POINT — A flashlight with a strong beam is a useful
tool to have. A screwdriver with a straight, Philips and square bits
will come in handy as well. You should also have available the
delivery invoice for the trailer. It will show all the standard
equipment and ordered options and should be compared to what you
thought you ordered and should be referred to during your
inspection.
You
will need the understanding & cooperation of your dealer for
this process, as it probably involves far more depth & detail
than they normally anticipate and schedule for. Make sure they know
about it in advance. (You may get a better-prepared trailer if you
do!) At the very least, tell the person doing the “owner inspection”
or “walk through” what you intend to do, give him or her a copy of
this checklist and work with them to plan the time accordingly. A
sense of humor will also come in handy!
Finally, my assumption for this PDI is that both (if fitted)
propane tanks are full, shore power is available, city water and a
hose are located close by and sewer connections, a drain or a dump
station is available. A fully charged battery must be connected as
well.
OUTSIDE WALK AROUND — The outside walk around should
take around one hour. At this point, you’re generally searching for
anything that does not look right.
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1. |
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Roof Sealing & Fixtures— You will
need to get up on the roof here, so round up a ladder or
carefully inspect the one on the back of the unit. Check that
all the mounting points are solidly attached to the body and
the rungs are firmly fixed to the frame.
Climb on the roof and inspect all seams, gaskets and
any other place that the roof material has been cut or holes
drilled.
Check that all shrouds & covers are intact,
unbroken and properly seated on the roof. Proper polyurethane
caulking should have been used to seal all places where the
roof has been penetrated.
Check closely around air conditioners, vents, antennas,
sewer vents, and side seams.
Look for any signs of bubbles (large and small),
delamination, foreign objects or protruding screw or nail
heads under the membrane (if a rubber roof). |
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2. |
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Windows — check closely around each window to
make sure it has been properly aligned and
sealed. |
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3. |
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Entry Doors — check the gasket used on all doors
for proper adhesive and coverage.
Look closely at the door from the inside and confirm
that it sits flush against the inside of the doorjamb.
Confirm that each key works in the appropriate
lock.
The main door should open & close smoothly and lock
with out undue effort.
Check that the screen door opens smoothly alone and
locks to the main door without any extra
effort. |
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4. |
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Baggage Compartments — open and close each door
checking for alignment and gasketing.
Confirm that each key works in the appropriate
lock
All hinges should be tight and secure and the latches
should hold the door tightly closed and still be easy to
open.
Look for any signs of moisture that might indicate rain
leakage.
Verify that compartment lighting (if fitted) works
properly.
Any gas cylinders used for keeping to door open should
be properly installed so as not to interfere with items stored
in the compartment. If clamp-type door hold-opens are used,
make sure they are present and hold the door
correctly. |
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5. |
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Sewer & Fresh Water Connections — Inspect
this area on the trailer to make sure that nothing is broken
or deformed.
If appropriate at this time, make sure you understand
how each valve or fitting works.
Understand the proper function of the black and gray
water valves.
If tank flushing is installed, understand how it
operates.
Understand where the low point drains are for the fresh
water system. |
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6. |
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Telephone & Cable TV Connections— Find and
understand the telephone and cable connections.
Make sure a weather cap is present for each connector
and that connectors are properly identified & mounting
plates are properly sealed. |
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7. |
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Propane —If the tank(s) are contained in a
compartment, here should be no possible way for propane to
enter into the RV or any other compartment.
Understand how the regulator works and how it switches
between cylinders.
Confirm that a leak test has been performed on both
pigtails between the tanks and regulator and the rest of the
system.
Locate and understand the operation of the main shut
off valve (if any). |
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8. |
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Battery — Check the battery box to verify that
it is ventilated and that any compartment slide mechanisms
work properly.
Verify that no battery cables are rubbing on any part
of the frame because that will eventually end up with a short
circuit and possible fire.
Understand the battery type provided and how to
maintain them. |
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9. |
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Paint & Siding— Carefully check the
paint finish on the RV. Any problems can be verified and
corrected at this point with a lot less hassle.
Site down the side of the unit to check for bumps or
depressions in the siding.
Divide each side of the unit into 2, 3 or 4 sections
and inspect for siding issues: color variations, dents or
irregularities.
Do the same for the ends of the unit
Look at places where vinyl film is used to make sure it
is free of any air bubbles.
Check ends of any decals for uniformity or “mistakes”
that may have gouged the siding.
Look
closely where masking tape was used for paint graphics to make
sure there is no over-spray.
Carefully check for surface smoothness and any place
when paint coverage is marginal or where there are bubbles.
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10. |
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Tires and Wheels — Closely inspect the tires and
wheels and understand the proper inflation pressure.
Verify the torque of the lug nuts or have the PDI
person do it while you watch.
Find out the proper jacking point for the trailer and
what kind of jack to use.
Determine if your tow vehicle lug nut wrench will fit
the lug nuts on the trailer or if another size is
necessary. |
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11. |
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Spare Tire — Check the condition & pressure
of the spare tire.
Understand how the carrier works if it is the fold-down
type. |
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12. |
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Awnings — Extend and retract each awning paying
particular attention to how the awning is locked in the
retracted position.
Make sure all springs, locks and supports work well and
are properly aligned.
Wiggle the mounting points for the support arms to get
a feeling for how solidly they are mounted to the
body. |
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13. |
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Chassis Inspection — Put on some old clothes or
coveralls and get a good-sized piece of cardboard or carpet to
make it easier to lie on you back while checking around under
the trailer. If it’s possible to do so without jacking up the
rig, it’s a lot easier, but do what makes sense to you.
You want to be able to Inspect all air and / or
hydraulic lines, wiring, shock absorber attachments, and in
general every place that a wire or pipe could rub against
something that could cause a problem later.
All wiring and piping should be properly fastened.
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14. |
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Slide Out Operation — If your RV includes a
slide-out or slide-outs then spend the time it takes to
understand its operation.
Start by checking the seals while the slide is
retracted.
You should not be able to find any places where you can
see light or detect airflow.
Use a flashlight to look into dark corners.
Understand the mechanism that extends and retracts the
slide.
Operate it several times and understand any
restrictions on operation.
Understand the manual retraction process and actually
perform the retraction as if the automatic mechanism had
failed.
Look for proper alignment of any wheels that may ride
on carpet or other flooring, to insure proper clearance.
Understand any locking mechanisms that are used to hold
the top of the slide out tight against the top of the RV.
Do your best to make sure the seals are properly
installed and operational when the slide is retracted and also
when it is extended. |
INSIDE FIT AND FINISH — Now its time to go inside. In
general you are looking for things that are not finished correctly
since it is too late to inspect the design of anything.
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15. |
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Cabinets — Inspect & open all of the
cabinets to insure that all the hinges and latches work well.
Pull each drawer out to its stop, return it closed and
then try to open it like road vibration might do.
Makes sure that there have been no water leaks and that
all the wiring and pipes are well fastened.
Inspect the linings (if any), to insure they are
fastened securely.
Run your hand along all edges, front & back to
check for and delamination or loose edges on molding or vinyl
wraps. |
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16. |
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Molding & trim — Go over all the trim on
walls, doors & furniture.
Make sure that everything is fastened on well and not
loose or ready to come off. |
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17. |
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Lighting — Operate every light switch and
observe its function.
Use the monitor panel to check battery levels.
Understand
and verify any battery disconnect switches.
(At this point, only 12V lighting can be tested, as the
unit is NOT connected to shore power yet) |
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18. |
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Closets —open and close all closet doors
checking for free operation and proper alignment.
Hanger rods should be properly fastened and secure.
Check out the lighting that is provided and any
switches that are used. |
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19. |
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Furniture — Examine every piece of furniture to
check for construction, upholstery, pattern and cloth
matching.
Check out the dinette by making it a bed with the
appropriate cushions.
Do the same with the couch or sofa. |
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20. |
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Blinds — Operate each blind and check for
alignment.
Look at all valances and trim to be sure they are
secured. |
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21. |
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Counter Tops — Inspect all counter tops for
alignment and fastening.
Make sure that any trim pieces that should be there are
in fact tight.
Check for caulking quality everywhere there may be
water, especially edges near a sink.
Check the installation of sinks and
faucets. |
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22. |
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Windows — Open and close every window and
operate the latches.
Pay particular attention to the two safety egress
windows or emergency windows and make sure they operate
smoothly & easily. |
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23. |
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Floor Coverings — Inspect carpet and other floor
coverings in all corners to insure that they have been
properly fastened down.
Check areas that slide outs may roll over for pulled
threads, cuts or other problems.
Check closely for gouges or cuts in linoleum tile.
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24. |
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Wall Coverings — Check to make sure that all the
wall coverings actually cover and join properly.
Look for any discoloration or patch jobs that may cover
hidden problems.
Try to find any places where it is not perfect since
now is the time to get it fixed while matching patterns are in
stock.
(Some folks suggest ordering extra fabric, carpet, and
wallpaper now so that matching material is available to make
small modifications or repairs at a later
date.) |
OPERATION TEST OF ALL HOUSE SYSTEMS — You should be
about two hours into to the PDI by now and you are ready to test all
of the house type systems.
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25. |
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Shore Power System— Now is the time to connect
up to shore power.
Pull out all of the AC cord, confirm the length and
inspect the plug for proper attachment.
Inside the unit, check any 110V lighting and switches.
(If you have a 110V receptacle tester, check all
outlets for proper wiring/polarity.)
Find the GFI-protected outlet and test using the push
button.
Understand which receptacles “down stream” from the GFI
are protected.
Any electrical problems here should be corrected
immediately. |
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26. |
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Converter — Confirm the operation of the
converter/charger that is installed.
Turn on several interior lights to create a load for
the converter and confirm no excessive converter noise or
vibration.
Have the PDI person explain the operation of the
converter, the AC circuit breakers and the DC fuses.
Make sure that there is a written list of the loads
connected to each. |
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27. |
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Water Pump — Your PDI person should have filled
the fresh water tank, so now you can test the function of the
water pump.
After turning it on, you should hear it pump for
several seconds, even up to a minute to create enough pressure
in the system.
If the pump does not shut off, then there is a problem.
Run water in the kitchen and bathroom sink and notice
that the pump will come back on until proper water pressure is
restored.
Now is the time to fix a noisy pump if it is vibrating
or making any irritating sounds. |
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28. |
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City Water System — Turn off the pump, connect
up to city water (use a regulator if overly high pressure is
suspected) and confirm that the connection works
correctly.
Look for leaks under sinks and confirm the operation of
all fixtures. |
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29. |
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Tankage — Re-fill the fresh water tank if
necessary and run water into the gray tank to verify the gauge
reading and that there are no leaks.
Filling the gray tank until water comes up in the
shower will make it easier to find leaks inside & out.
Do the same thing to the black water tank, including
filling so that water comes up inside the toilet. Check for
leaks (if the toilet is installed correctly, there will be no
leaks!) You can fill the black water tank by using the
tank flushing system (if fitted), by using a garden hose
adapter for the sewer connection (through a backflow
preventer) or by bringing the water hose inside and filling
the tank through the toilet. This last method can be a little
cumbersome, and I don’t recommend unless you’ve done it
before.
Check the gauges for accuracy while you are filling
Now is the time you want to find leaks if there are
any.
Drain the gray and black water tanks using the sewer
hose or the garden hose adapter. |
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30. |
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Water Heater — Try the water heater on propane
first.
A
few seconds after you turn it on, you should hear the click of
the igniter and the small pop when the burner lights.
The red light should stay on until that process
happens.
If it does not ignite, then there is a problem.
Turn the AC element in the water heater (if connected)
and confirm operation.
Make sure you know the location of the electrical
switch at the water heater and the correct operation of the
interior switch.
If your unit is so equipped, understand the operation
of the bypass valves for winterizing.
Confirm that hot (or warm water depending on how long
the water heater has been on) comes out of the hot tap at the
various sinks. |
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31. |
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Furnace — Now its time to understand the
operation of the thermostat that controls heating and
sometimes the air conditioning.
Turn the furnace on and set a temperature demand that
is at least 10 degrees hotter than ambient temperature.
In about 30 seconds, you should hear the furnace fans
come on.
Shortly thereafter you should hear the click of the
igniter and the sound of the burner. If not then there is a
problem. It could also be taking a while for propane to get to
the heater, so don’t despair.
Let the furnace blow and you should get hot air at
about 110 degrees coming out of all vents. Check each one.
Now turn the furnace down and the hot air will
gradually turn cooler and the fans will eventually stop after
the furnace has cooled sufficiently.
During this process have someone with a good nose
checking for any smell of material getting too hot, or exhaust
coming out. |
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Air Conditioners — Some air conditioners also
have a heat strip or heat pump feature so now is the time to
verify these functions.
Turn on the air conditioner.
After a couple of minutes, cool air, 20 degrees cooler
than ambient, should be coming out of the registers.
If you unit has ducting in the ceiling, make sure a
good airflow comes out of each register.
Learn how to clean the filters at this
time. |
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33. |
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Propane and Carbon Monoxide Alarms& Smoke
Detector— now is a good time to check the function of
these alarms.
The PDI person should have a small canister of gas that
can be sprayed at the alarm to test its operation.
Have them
perform this test while you watch and learn how the alarms
work.
Confirm that there is a new battery in the Smoke
Detector (write the date on it for reference)
Activate the test button to check operation of the
smoke detector. Understand how to turn it
off. |
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34. |
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Refrigerator — Most modern refrigerators work on
propane or AC and have an automatic mode that gives preference
to AC and then will switch to propane if AC power is not
available.
Understand the controls and the status lights and set
the unit on propane. The RV may need to be unplugged for this
to happen.
Go outside to the refrigerator vent grill and make sure
that the propane heating column is lit and heating.
While the refrigerator grill is open, check to make
sure the drain line is positioned for proper
drainage.
Set the temperature at the highest cooling setting,
because setting it to lowest will typically cause the coils to
collect moisture and ice up.
Come back in about 10 minutes to feel that the
coil/fins is actually starting to cool. |
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35. |
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TV VCR Antenna and Switching —For the most
through test, bring a small AC/DC TV with you for the initial
test.
Review and understand the switching system that allows
the selection of viewing channel on the front and rear TV.
Raise the TV UHF/VHF antenna and learn how to turn on
the amplifier and the DC outlet.
Find out the power rating of the DC outlet and compare
it to the load of the equipment you will connect to it.
Activate the control on the front TV that scans for
local stations.
Learn how to rotate the antenna to maximize the quality
of the picture. |
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36. |
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Air Vents — Test the operation of kitchen and
bathroom air vents making sure they open and turn on properly
(if powered). Verify that they retract and close
tightly.
Check any other vents for proper
operation. |
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Microwave — Put a cup of cold water in the
microwave and set the timer for 5 minutes.
The water in the cup should boil in less than 5
minutes.
Make sure there are no unusual sounds coming from the
Microwave. |
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38. |
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Propane Stove — Turn on one burner of the
stovetop while the AC’s and Microwave are running and the
automatic igniters should cause a strong spark to light the
burner.
Turn on the other burners to verify that there is
enough propane flow to operate the refrigerator, water heater
and all the burners.
If everything is OK, turn off the burners on the stove.
If your unit has an oven, then understand how the pilot
is lit and verify its operation now.
Note: Sometimes the burner igniters interfere with the
operation of the thermostats for the roof AC. This is the time
to find this problem. |
Summary — You have now done a simple test of the major
house systems and can shut everything off. By now, you will have a
list of things that you feel need correcting, but it may be then the
end of the day, so plan on camping near the dealer for the night.
This will give you a chance to further test the various functions.
Prepare yourself for waiting until these things are corrected and
don’t be tempted by the PDI person to sign the acceptance paperwork
just yet. For a really serious checkout of your new trailer, you
should "dry camp" the first night and not be tempted to hook up to
shore utilities just yet. Bring enough kitchen equipment and food so
that you can prepare an evening meal. There is no better way to test
the living facilities than to actually use them. Don’t be tempted,
since you’ve had a tough day to go out to eat.
ACCEPTANCE — When you are satisfied that all systems
are "go" then sign the acceptance papers that the PDI person will
anxiously provide for you. Schedule your first return trip to the
dealer for about a week to a month from now. You are now ready to
take your "shake down" cruise.
SHAKE DOWN CRUISE — Select an interesting destination
about 100 miles away for your maiden voyage. Actually use all the
systems multiple times to try to detect and infant failures
(electronic equipment fails at greater rates at the beginning of its
life). Carefully note any problems or discrepancies in a list and
make a copy for the dealer when you take the trailer in
again.
GOOD
LUCK!
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